Category: Eat in Naples

Food on the spot: “Peperoni and not pepperoni!” pizza in Naples

peperoni pizza A peperoni pizza in Naples? Oh, yes!

Food on the spot, for the weekly appointment with the good things to eat in the street in Naples, takes you in a deeply vibrant and trafficked part of Naples, Corso Umberto, and more precisely Piazza Bovio. This choice could seem a little out of the blue considering the usual Food on the Spot locations in which you can truly relax far from caos and cars, but you just need to know that there are some little lovely gardens where you can sit and eat something together with other office workers that choice this place as their spot for eating.

We are talking about the pulsing heart of Naples, and I’m not talking about the historic center, but  a part of the city even more chaotic for its many offices and shops. From this point, also called Piazza Borsa by many Neapolitans for the presence of the old stocking market building, you can easily get to the sea and the molo beverello from where you can get to the isle of Naples by boat. You can also get to Piazza Municipio or Via Toledo, as well as the extraordinary Piazza Garibaldi.

peperoni pizza

IL FOOD

Peperoni (pepper) pizza, without any doubt, can be considered one of the best quality food in Naples, in my humble opinion. and how you can find it at “Nana” in Naples, is certainly special. Nana is a very cool store where you can buy a lot of things from the farmers around Naples, like wine, beer, pasta, marmalades, and also vegetables. A very excellence store of Campania. I believe that Nana is a very outstanding example of good enterpreunership in Naples. I chose an artisanal beer (in italian: birra artigianale), that was very refreshing and a perfect company for the pepper pizza. Pay attention! pepperoni is peppers, the big ones you can find red or yellow, and not the “pepperoni”, the sausage!

LO SPOT

Piazza Bovio hosts the Camera di Commercio di Napoli, often place for big events and exhibitions. In the center of the city there is a horse statue of Vittorio Emanuele, King of Italy. Many Neapolitans prefer Borbone to Savoia (two reigning dinasties of the past), this lead in recent times to the development of a truly Borbonic movement, an expression of the will to bring Naples to the ancient times, when it was a very powerful city in the Reign of the Two Sicilies.

 

Food in Naples: Focaccia in Largo Berlinguer

Weekly randez-vous with the tasty “Food on the spot” this week takes you on an another culinary journey.

Largo Berlinguer, Napoli

Why this food writing experiment? Well that’s simple, who said that slow food must be tasted at a restaurant table? There are some lunch pauses that sometimes give you a lot more peace and taste, and without spending too much money. So, adopt our motto: “Slow food on the road”!

In this springly period, it could be very pleasant to eat in the street. And why not enjoy a good walk in Via Toledo (that Neapolitans call Via Roma) to finish in greatness with a tasty focaccia in Largo Berlinguer? Eating in the street for lunch can be a nice way to enjoy your food in Naples.

THE FOOD

La focacceria a salita ponte di tappia, napoliIn Salita Ponte di Tappia, a street near via Rom…ops! Via Toledo, you can find a little shop, called “La focacceria”, where it’s possible to enjoy focaccia and saltimbocca at honest prices. In addition to the classic Margherita, there are focaccia with many veggies and sauces, but my choice was a Neapolitan classic: the Pizza di Scarole (Scarole is a vegetable with a strong but fresh flavour, something like the endive). Usually with olives, capers and sometimes sardines in addition to the tasty scarola, it can be defined as a “flavour explosion”. It can be found in many Naples pizzerias. Near the focacceria, there is a book shop, Feltrinelli, but c’mon, if you need a touristic itinerary to visit Naples, take ours! They’re written by Neapolitans, and free of charge!

I’ll just put a button here, it looks better when it’s been pressed!

Itinerari Napoli Travel Naples

THE SPOT

A wide open space, facing on one side on Via Toledo, and on the other on a big square. People running because Focaccia a Largo Berlinguer. Napoliperhaps they’re late, under an early afternoon sun, a little jazz orchestra playing not too far away, kids watching in the metro station’s windows, street artists painting, and the Sant’ Elmo castle watching the scene from a far distance. Well it has been a real pleasure to write the Food on the Spot article of this week for you, largo Berlinguer is a nice choice for a lunch.

We would like to remind you that the name “Berlinguer” has been given to this place in a tribute for a famous Italian politic who changed radically history of the country. You will find seats on some stone installations, very close on the road. On the left there are some little markets where you could find some good deals. Not too distant from here there are accesses to the truly famous Station of the metro 1: Via Toledo. Naturally we suggest you to roam around, but if you need fast directions, refer to our transports informations!

Itinerari Napoli Travel Naples

Well that’s all, and remember: a scarola pizza is for ever! (or two minutes, it depends on the speed at you are eating!)

Food in Naples: potato omelette

Food in Naples: Frittata di patate

Near the molo Beverello, where it’s possible to take the ferry to the islands of the Naples Gulf (Capri, Ischia and Procida in this order from left to right looking at the sea from the Naples port), you can find the beautiful Piazza Municipio. This square, that for many years citizens couldn’t see due to renewing works, is finally back.

the Food Choice

Potato salt cake in Naples
Potato salt cake in Naples

For this Food on the Spot session, I chose a fresh potato omelette in the great Piazza Municipio. If together with a good beer, I assure you it would be a thing that you would like to repeat in the future, trust me. The potato omelette can be found at Grangusto, restaurant, bar and supermarket on

Beer in Naples
Beer in Naples

Via Marina. Don’t be sad looking at the map, it takes just 10 minutes to get to the square, and the route is very pleasant. the very strong point in choosing Grangusto is the great selection of a higher level above the others regarding drinks like wine, beer, but also gourmet food and a nice selection of food in general. Personally I chose a saison beer, the Giulio Agricola, from Lazio. As said before, it’s possible to find a vast selection of beers and italian wines at Grangusto.

For those who’d like to try something more traditional, and I mean something more suitable for Naples kitchen recipes, I suggest you a maccheroni omelette. In fact the “frittata di maccheroni” can be considered a real neapolitan trademark, a partenopean copyright, an evergreen… let’s say a classic.

The spot

This time any word would be useless. Really.

You just need to get to the square to understand what I’m talking about.

If you’d like to have a clue instead, you could check our itinerary
itinerario Napoli Centro
Napoli Centro

 

The Neptune fountain

Municipio square has in the middle the Neptune fountain, which, built in the VIth century as wish of Enrique de Guzman, Olivares Count, Vicerè di Napoli, was moved multiple times during last years in Naples. In fact, until few years ago, during renewing of the square, it was positioned in Via Medina.

It was then moved during 2015, when the Metro 1 station in Piazza Municipio was opened.

This very big station, keeps a lot of historical and archelogical rests of great value and importance.

Palazzo San Giacomo

Just behind the statue, having the sea on the back, you can admire Palazzo San Giacomo, that it’s where the City Council is hosted, as well as the Naples Major. So don’t you worry about the many policemen around the square, and enjoy your potato omelette!

How to get to Piazza Municipio from Piazza Garibaldi (Central Station)

Indicazioni stradali Piazza Municipio

If you want read the italian version, click here.

 

 

Napoli food: Fried Pizza in Piazza Plebiscito

FRIED PIZZA IS THE ANSWER

Food on the spot fried pizza in naples
Impossible to resist!

In the Trieste e Trento square, you could find a little shop with the sign missing, it’s the one of zia Esterina, where extraordinary fried pizzas are made.
Usually you have to wait a while before eating, but I can surely affirm that it’s one of the best pizza in town.
This week’s proposal is to taste your fried pizza in Plebiscito square, on the church’s stairs, which are a good sit, just looking at random people passing, that will seem so small compared to the vastity of the place, it’s relaxing!

Pizzeria Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Pizzeria Zia Esterina Sorbillo

You need like ten minutes to get to the “spot”, but it’s good for the fried pizza to chill a while, otherwise you will not manage to taste it fully.

Price is fair, and the pizza is very big. It’s possible to order some variants, and personally I like a lot watching the fried pizza getting big in the frying oil.

And now for some history about Naples

Piazza Plebiscito is right in front of the Royal Palace, and there’s a funny story about the statues of the Kings standing from the Royal building, I’m not gonna tell it, but if it happens to you to know someone from Naples, just ask him, he’ll certainly know.

Piazza Plebiscito in the evening
Piazza Plebiscito in the evening

Another funny game Neapolitans do is to start from the extremity in front of the church, right in the middle, and with a bandage on the eyes, manage to get passing between the two equine statues. Legend says, that in the Queen Margherita di Savoia times, once in a month, a prisoner was put to the test with this almost impossible challenge, for the extreme big dimensions of Plebiscito Square.
“Plebiscito” name, which means plebiscite, popular referendum, comes from the festivities for the Sardinia joining the “Two Sicilies Kingdom”.

Along times, most recently, many art installations were held in the middle of the square, often they were enormous, and kinda odd, but you know, temporary art is difficult to understand.. expecially for me, that sometimes just walk by to discover what the artists made that day.

If you want read the italian version, click here.

The Neapolitan Ragù

The Neapolitan Ragù

must pippiare

neapolitan ragù
Photo by Mariateresa Zanchiello

The neapolitan Ragù (proun. Ragoo) is certainly one of the fundamental dishes from Napoli’s cooking tradition.It is the typical dish to be eaten on Sunday. It isn’t simply “carne c’ ‘a pummarola” (meat & tomato sauce), like Neapolitan theatrical actor and director Eduardo de Filippo said the Ragù takes much time to be perfect…much time. It has to be cooked for many hours to reach that characteristic solidity and strong taste, it has to “pippiare” how the Neapolitans say. In fact, tradionally the Ragù is prepared during saturday night to be ready for the lunch of Sunday, with a slow heat in a pan of clay and with a wooden spoon.

the ragu’ today

But nowdays, in the lighter preparation, also four-five hours are sufficient. The fundamental ingredients of the Ragù are the concentrated and tomato puree, added in onions browned after softly frying them with extra-virgin oil. In Naples the Ragù has to be directly prepared with meat (entrecote, meat balls, stew), which is the perfect second course together with the macaroni pasta or a different type, as long as it is short and lined. If you taste the Ragù, forget the good manners, the “scarpetta” is a must, so tast last sauce in the dish with a piece of bread!

A simple dish but with an unique taste.

If would you like to taste this gourgeous dish of Neapolitan tradition, we suggest you Tandem a small restourant dedicated to Ragù.

If you read the italian version, click here.

Salva

Il Babà

Il babà

dobro!

Even if the “babà” has a polish origin, in the 19° century it took a central position in the traditional neapolitan patisserie. The story tells that the Babà must birth took place thanks to Stanislao Leszczinski, Poland’s monarch from 1704 to 1735. The monarch, embittered for his failures in reigning, used to to mitigate his mood with sweets. Infact he surrounded himself with patissiere chefs who everyday had to create a new sweet for the King. But Their creativity was insufficient and they always served to the monarch the same “Kugelhupt”, a typical polish cake, made by fine flour, butter, sugar, eggs and grapes. One day Stanislao, furious for the last Kugelhupt served, threw the plate on the table and touched a bottle of Rhum, which completely turned upside down on the cake. Under the eyes of all presents, took place a metamorphosis: the dough rised, the colour became amberish and a sweet fragrance flooded the room. The Monarch, very cuorious about that transformation, tasted it. That day the Neapolitan sweet called Babà was born.The babà from Poland arrived in Naples with the “monsù”, chefs who worked at the most prestigious Neapolitan families.

It was thanks to the neapolitan patissieres’ majesty and creativity that the “babà” became even softer and got the typical mushroom’s shape through a long leavening.
Since that time the babà became one of the typical sweet of Naples.
What distinguishes the neapolitan babà from the polish one is the spilling of rhum. There are different ways to taste the babà: stuffed with chocolate or cream, strawberries and black cherries or with Limoncello. It can be as a big donut or in a little size, that is perfect to eat while walking in the streets of the city!
You can find the best babà in town at Mary, in the Umberto gallery or at Tizzano at Corso Meridionale…you will not be disappointed!

If you read the italian version, click here.